The trek to the top offers incredible city views.
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The United States of America is bookended by two of the world's greatest icons. On the east coast there's the Statue of Liberty, which embodies a commitment to freedom and inclusion. Out west is the Hollywood Sign, a uniquely American invention that hovers above its namesake city, a reminder of success that could be possible by heading onwards and upwards. At least, that's what I'm telling myself as I march (or lurch) up the steep incline of road that leads to the summit of Mount Lee, the sign's home. It's an early December morning but already the distinctive Californian heat is in the air.
![History on a hill. Picture: Unsplash/Vincentas Liskauskas History on a hill. Picture: Unsplash/Vincentas Liskauskas](/images/transform/v1/crop/frm/130854433/44d0c317-862f-4c91-b682-618cb0ed6f51.jpg/r0_0_6000_3373_w1200_h678_fmax.jpg)
None of which bothers Jeff "Mr Hollywood" Zarrinnam, my guide and chair of the Hollywood Sign Trust. We pass several early-morning hikers along the way. "We can't tell people to come up here or why they should, they just do. It sells itself."
The three authorised hikes are all self-guided and vary from easy to difficult. The easier Mount Hollywood or Brush Canyon trails are about 10 kilometres long. The Cahuenga Peak trail is half the distance but much harder. All ways provide great views of and proximity to the sign, but true to its dreamlike nature, none allow you to walk right up and touch it.
Given his status, Zarrinnam doesn't normally conduct tours. Today is special, however; it's December 8, 2023 - the 100th anniversary of the day the sign was first erected as an advertisement for a housing development. Made from wood, it was only meant to last 18 months. "Did they think it would become one of the top five icons of the world? I don't think so," says Zarrinnam.
In 1978, the Hollywood Sign received its first major facelift when it was re-created in steel by the newly established Hollywood Sign Trust, which has maintained it ever since. Full of energy and enthusiasm for his charge, Hollywood native Zarrinnam has spent more time than anyone looking after what he believes is the most American of all the country's landmarks.
"When you're born in Hollywood, it's part of your life," he says. "The first letters I learned weren't A, B and C; they were H, O and L." These letters suddenly appear over the rise. From my room at Loews Hollywood Hotel, the sign seemed like a distant, constant reminder of where I was.
Up close, their full power comes into focus, as does an amazing panoramic view of Los Angeles. "There's the Hollywood Bowl, the Capitol Records Building," Zarrinnam points out. And there's my hotel, an insignificant pixel on the map far below.
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And then there's the sign itself, an untouchable dream entirely worth the effort. Nearby, two women pose for gushing pictures with the sign. For some, this is Everest.
"Once I met a pair of sisters from England up here," Zarrinnam says. "They told me they'd waited 30 years to come to the sign."
Zarrinnam asked the sisters what the sign meant to them. "I'm always curious. One of them said, 'The Hollywood Sign is America'. I think she couldn't have been more correct."
SNAPSHOT
What: A hike through the Hollywood hills for the best view of the iconic Hollywood Sign.
When: With little shade along the route, start early. Don't go during hot weather or storms.
Who: Many guides are available, but Zarrinnam recommends taking a DIY approach on one of the authorised hiking trails.
Explore more: hollywoodsign.org; discoverlosangeles.com
The writer was a guest of LA Tourism.